SKINCARE ISSUES FOR PEOPLE WITH DARKER COMPLEXIONS

When the cells of the skin travel to the surface layer they gradually die, having lost all enzymes, amino-acids and vitamin contents. These substances keep cells alive by providing them with nourishment. The skin cells become hard and flat at this point, and under a microscope these dead cells resemble shingles on a roof. This layer of dead cells is the hornified cuticle layer. This layer should be exfoliated (removed) on a daily basis. If not removed, the sebaceous oil and sudoriferous (sweat) secretions cannot flow evenly on the skin to keep its moisture balanced, bright, and even in tone. Instead, the skin looks dry, ashy and flaky. The cuticle layers build up over the years, and the sweat and oil gland secretions backup behind this layer. The pressure created by this backup can cause a rupture in the skin and pustules may occur, becoming infected and inflamed. If improperly treated, this can cause scarring. Scarring is due to trauma inflicted on the skin causing excess melanin to rush to the traumatized area. Acne scar tissue is a particular problem for people with darker complexions, and the condition can only be avoided with regular skin treatments.

It is very common for clients to use incompatible products such as cocoa butter, Shea butter, baby oil and even body lotions. While suitable for use on the body, these products may cause damage to facial skin, as the surface is so much more delicate. Other widely used products that may cause damage to darker skin are lightening creams containing hydroquinone and depilatory shaving creams.

Excess oiliness is another common problem. Since oil and water tend to seek the easiest route of flow, where the skin is thinnest and tightest (nose and forehead), a greasy "T-­zone" is created. When the pores of the skin in the T-zone become impacted with hard plugs of sebum wax, this is an indication that the person is using an alkaline soap. Alkaline soaps chemically change the sebum oils into deposited fats, which in turn become waxy and clog the pores in the skin. Due to the rapid cell development in darker skin, many of these clogged deposits are covered over with new skin cells before they can completely surface. A lump may form as seen on men with razor bumps, which get even more infected after shaving.

Scrubbing pads, almond scrubs, or other abrasive materials are not recommended for the removal of waxy buildup. Under a microscope the skin (epidermis) is not really a flat horizontal layer. It is actually a series of hills and valleys, an aggregation of old and new cells, rising and falling at different levels. Abrasive materials only hit the peaks of the "hills", doing nothing for the material lodged in the "valleys" of the pores. Abrasives can actually do more harm than good, as the skin surface must be entirely free of dead cell material before any real healing can take place. Abrasives may also lead to over-stimulation of the oil glands, creating more oiliness. The most effective way to remove dead skin cells is through a process of hydrolyzation.